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The Upper Maremma Circuit

Cycling between the tuff towns

An explosive mix of culture and fun, this journey takes us through the northern Maremma and all the towns in the region that are made of tuff rock. The proposed itinerary is a circular loop with culinary detours, picture-perfect scenery and some roads to get your teeth into.

Program your GPS: Pitigliano, Manciano, Montemerano, Saturnia, Sovana, Sorano, Monte Sorano, Pitigliano

1.
first leg
Sorano

For those who love to take a trip that brings you right back to the beginning, this loop is perfect: 80 km of Tuscany that will melt your heart and leave you weak at the knees. Sorano is both the start and end point, with its numerous rocky houses built into the tuff, which make for a charming, highly photogenic town centre. Allow yourself some time to appreciate and explore the tiny alleyways, which will guide you towards the Orsini fortress and the stronghold known as the Masso Leopoldino, which both rise proudly over the area.

For those who love to take a trip that brings you right back to the beginning, this loop is perfect: 80 km of Tuscany that will melt your heart and leave you weak at the knees. Sorano is both the start and end point, with its numerous rocky houses built into the tuff, which make for a charming, highly photogenic town centre. Allow yourself some time to appreciate and explore the tiny alleyways, which will guide you towards the Orsini fortress and the stronghold known as the Masso Leopoldino, which both rise proudly over the area.

2.
Second leg
Pitigliano, the little Jerusalem

Leaving the town and heading south, we take off down the provincial road towards Pitigliano, passing by the thermal spas of Sorano and then cresting the mountains, drinking in the panorama. Pitigliano, ever vain, also loves to be photographed from all different angles: its best side is from the turn in the road before the church of the Madonna delle Grazie, with the tower of the Orsini castle and the arches of the Medici aqueduct lit up from sunrise to sunset. Where rock ends and house begins is not quite clear, as if both came from the same seed. Monuments, from the Medieval era to the eighteenth century, and museums, from the Etruscan to the Jewish Museum, with its adjoining synagogue and community, enrich the cultural capital of the route.

One of the townsfolk with two wheels and a biker’s heart is Tarziello Niccolai, the ex-mechanic of the town and owner of the Moto Guzzi store. He is seen as the man who convinced the local farmers to swap their mules for motorcycles; he also periodically works as a driving instructor and has amassed a catalogue of yarns. Not too long ago, the Bike Show in Milan did not have the media influence that it does today, and so new arrivals on the Guzzi market used to come to town thanks to Tarziello.

Leaving the town and heading south, we take off down the provincial road towards Pitigliano, passing by the thermal spas of Sorano and then cresting the mountains, drinking in the panorama. Pitigliano, ever vain, also loves to be photographed from all different angles: its best side is from the turn in the road before the church of the Madonna delle Grazie, with the tower of the Orsini castle and the arches of the Medici aqueduct lit up from sunrise to sunset. Where rock ends and house begins is not quite clear, as if both came from the same seed. Monuments, from the Medieval era to the eighteenth century, and museums, from the Etruscan to the Jewish Museum, with its adjoining synagogue and community, enrich the cultural capital of the route.

One of the townsfolk with two wheels and a biker’s heart is Tarziello Niccolai, the ex-mechanic of the town and owner of the Moto Guzzi store. He is seen as the man who convinced the local farmers to swap their mules for motorcycles; he also periodically works as a driving instructor and has amassed a catalogue of yarns. Not too long ago, the Bike Show in Milan did not have the media influence that it does today, and so new arrivals on the Guzzi market used to come to town thanks to Tarziello.

3.
third leg
Albegna valley

First, second, third…and if you have higher gears, shift through them: the following kilometres, your handlebars should not need to move an inch. A sudden bend breaks the spell, and then you make a shaded climb, braking to enjoy the view of the Aldobrandesca di Manciano fort. From here you can see the whole of the Albegna valley, all the way to the lagoon of Orbetello.

First, second, third…and if you have higher gears, shift through them: the following kilometres, your handlebars should not need to move an inch. A sudden bend breaks the spell, and then you make a shaded climb, braking to enjoy the view of the Aldobrandesca di Manciano fort. From here you can see the whole of the Albegna valley, all the way to the lagoon of Orbetello.

4.
fourth leg
Relax in the thermal waters of Saturnia

The twisty SP152 connects us to Montemerano, by heading in the direction of Scansano: this road is a real workout for the compass. But once this serpentine stretch is over, we suggest you stop at the waterfall at Mulino di Saturnia, where the thermal waters are open to everyone. Having stretched your legs, you are ready to get back on the SP10 road and go through the wine country of the Maremman Hills, to reach the SP22 and Sovana; but do not miss out the Etruscan necropolis, an integral part of the Archeological park “City of Tufo”. Sovana was once a capital of the Maremma as ruled by the Aldobrandeschi, and its beautiful piazza del Pretorio is surrounded by stunning buildings.

The last act to the drama ends with a return to Sorano. Hugging huge walls of tuff, we weave to and fro along the twists and turns that bring us back to the beginning in grand style.

Info: www.provincia.grosseto.itwww.altamaremmaturismo.itwww.cascate-del-mulino.info


The twisty SP152 connects us to Montemerano, by heading in the direction of Scansano: this road is a real workout for the compass. But once this serpentine stretch is over, we suggest you stop at the waterfall at Mulino di Saturnia, where the thermal waters are open to everyone. Having stretched your legs, you are ready to get back on the SP10 road and go through the wine country of the Maremman Hills, to reach the SP22 and Sovana; but do not miss out the Etruscan necropolis, an integral part of the Archeological park “City of Tufo”. Sovana was once a capital of the Maremma as ruled by the Aldobrandeschi, and its beautiful piazza del Pretorio is surrounded by stunning buildings.

The last act to the drama ends with a return to Sorano. Hugging huge walls of tuff, we weave to and fro along the twists and turns that bring us back to the beginning in grand style.

Info: www.provincia.grosseto.itwww.altamaremmaturismo.itwww.cascate-del-mulino.info


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